Table of Contents
ToggleThe Complete Guide to Breeding African Grey Parrots
Introduction to African Grey Parrots
Origins and Natural Habitat
African Grey Parrots are native to the dense rainforests of Central and West Africa, particularly in countries like Cameroon, Ghana, Congo, and the Ivory Coast. These intelligent birds thrive in warm, humid environments with access to tall trees and abundant food sources like fruits, nuts, and seeds. There are two main subspecies: the Congo African Grey (Psittacus erithacus) and the Timneh African Grey (Psittacus timneh). While both share many characteristics, the Congo is slightly larger and lighter in coloration.
In the wild, these parrots live in flocks and form strong social bonds, not only with mates but also within their communities. Their natural behaviors—such as flying long distances, foraging in groups, and mimicking sounds—are crucial aspects to consider when breeding them in captivity. To ensure healthy and successful breeding, breeders must replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible in a controlled environment.
Captive breeding of African Greys helps reduce pressure on wild populations, which have suffered due to habitat destruction and illegal trade. However, replicating the complexity of their wild environment in captivity is no small task. Factors like mental stimulation, diet, space, and interaction must be carefully managed to mimic what they would experience in the wild.
Why They’re Popular Among Bird Enthusiasts
African Grey Parrots are widely regarded as the most intelligent parrots in the world. Known for their exceptional ability to mimic human speech and understand context, they are often referred to as the “Einsteins of the bird world.” Their impressive cognitive skills make them both fascinating and challenging pets, requiring ongoing mental stimulation and social interaction.
For breeders, their popularity means there’s a consistent demand. However, this also brings the responsibility of ensuring ethical breeding practices. People don’t just want a parrot—they want a companion that can bond with them, communicate, and become part of the family. This makes African Greys both a profitable and a serious long-term commitment for breeders.
Because of their intelligence, these birds need more than just food and water—they crave attention, interaction, and enrichment. This high level of need must be addressed from day one, especially when breeding them. Proper care during breeding results in chicks that are more sociable, healthier, and easier to train, which in turn makes them more appealing to future owners.
Understanding the Breeding Behavior
Mating Rituals and Pair Bonding
Breeding African Grey Parrots is not as simple as putting a male and female together. They are monogamous birds that require time and space to form a bond. In the wild, mating pairs engage in mutual preening, synchronized feeding, and playful interactions before actual mating occurs. Replicating these natural behaviors in captivity requires patience and observation.
When a pair starts to bond, you’ll notice increased vocalizations, physical closeness, and grooming. They may feed each other or mimic each other’s behaviors, showing a growing trust. Forced pairings rarely succeed and can lead to aggression or stress. The bonding process can take weeks or even months, and breeders must allow the parrots time to become comfortable with each other.
Once a bond forms, mating rituals will follow. These typically include a series of dances, head bobbing, and wing flapping, culminating in copulation. This stage is critical—without a strong pair bond, even the most ideal environment won’t lead to successful breeding. Understanding and observing these behaviors helps you know when your birds are truly ready.
Identifying Breeding Readiness
Just because a pair of African Greys is bonded doesn’t mean they are ready to breed. There are several signs that indicate readiness, including hormonal changes, nesting behavior, and increased territoriality. Physically, both the male and female will appear more vibrant, vocal, and energetic.
Females may begin shredding paper or chewing on wood—natural nesting behaviors. Males often become more attentive, feeding the female and guarding the nest area. These behavioral shifts typically happen during the breeding season, which in captivity is often influenced by changes in daylight and temperature.
Age is another critical factor. African Greys reach sexual maturity at around 4 to 5 years old. Attempting to breed them too early can lead to complications, stress, and failed clutches. It’s essential to wait until both birds are physically and mentally mature before allowing them to breed.
Choosing the Right Breeding Pair
Age and Health Requirements
Not every African Grey is suitable for breeding. The ideal breeding pair should be between 5 and 15 years old. Birds outside this range may face fertility issues or health problems that complicate breeding. Regular vet checks are crucial to confirm the health of both the male and female before pairing them.
Physical signs of good health include a strong beak, clear eyes, smooth feathers, and active behavior. Any signs of lethargy, feather plucking, or irregular droppings should be taken seriously. A comprehensive health check should include tests for common avian diseases, parasites, and nutritional deficiencies.
It’s not just about avoiding sickness—optimal health boosts fertility and increases the chances of raising healthy chicks. A well-balanced diet, regular exercise, and a stress-free environment all contribute to the overall breeding success.
Compatibility and Pair Selection
Compatibility can make or break your breeding project. Even healthy, mature birds won’t breed successfully if they don’t get along. This is why many breeders introduce multiple birds in a neutral space and observe how they interact before finalizing a pair.
Look for signs of mutual interest, such as following each other, grooming, and sharing food. If the birds are aggressive or avoid each other, they likely won’t bond, let alone breed. Some breeders use adjacent cages during the introductory phase so the birds can see and hear each other without direct contact.
It’s also a good idea to keep detailed records of each bird’s history, behavior, and previous breeding outcomes (if any). Birds that have successfully bred in the past may do so again, but only if paired with a compatible mate. Genetic diversity should also be considered—avoid inbreeding by ensuring birds are not closely related.
Setting Up the Perfect Breeding Environment
Cage Size and Structure
African Greys need plenty of space to move, stretch, and exercise, especially when breeding. The minimum recommended cage size for a breeding pair is 4 feet wide by 3 feet deep by 6 feet high. Bigger is always better, as cramped spaces can lead to stress and aggression.
The cage should be made of strong, non-toxic materials since Greys are powerful chewers. Stainless steel or powder-coated bars work best. Include perches of varying sizes and materials to keep their feet healthy and stimulated.
Placement also matters. Choose a quiet, low-traffic area where the birds feel safe and secure. Avoid placing the cage near windows with harsh sunlight or drafts. A stable, peaceful environment is key to encouraging breeding behaviors.
Nest Box Placement and Design
The nest box is where all the magic happens, so it needs to be designed and placed thoughtfully. A vertical nest box measuring about 12x12x18 inches is ideal for African Greys. Line it with clean pine shavings or shredded paper to provide a comfortable bedding for egg laying.
Mount the box outside the cage with access from inside, so you can inspect it without disturbing the birds too much. Secure it firmly to prevent any accidents, and ensure it’s made from untreated wood to avoid toxicity.
Make sure the birds have access to the nest box at all times during the breeding season. Once they start using it, reduce interference as much as possible. Trust is everything—if they feel threatened, they might abandon the clutch.
Lighting, Temperature, and Humidity Control
Environmental factors can significantly affect breeding. African Greys need about 12-14 hours of light per day to stimulate hormonal changes associated with reproduction. Use full-spectrum avian lights if natural sunlight isn’t available.
Temperature should be maintained between 75°F and 85°F. Sudden drops can disrupt breeding cycles or even harm the eggs. Humidity also plays a role—it should be kept around 50-60% to mimic their natural habitat and support healthy egg development.
Automating these conditions using thermostats, humidifiers, and timers can simplify management and create a stable environment that supports breeding success.
Diet and Nutrition for Breeding Pairs
Nutritional Needs Before and During Breeding
When it comes to breeding African Grey Parrots, diet isn’t just important—it’s critical. The nutritional needs of breeding pairs skyrocket as their bodies prepare for mating, egg production, and chick-rearing. A poor diet leads to poor fertility, weak chicks, and even egg binding, which can be fatal for the female.
Before breeding season starts, begin by boosting their intake of essential vitamins and minerals. Calcium is especially important for the female, as it’s the building block for eggshells. A lack of calcium can lead to soft-shelled eggs or egg retention. You’ll also need to provide sufficient protein to support the development of eggs and chick growth.
A balanced diet should consist of a mix of high-quality pellets (about 60–70% of their daily intake), supplemented with fresh vegetables, fruits, seeds, and legumes. Dark leafy greens like kale, collard greens, and spinach are excellent calcium sources. Carrots, bell peppers, and sweet potatoes add beta-carotene and Vitamin A—crucial for reproductive health.
Introduce soft foods like cooked eggs, quinoa, or soaked legumes before and during breeding. These provide easily digestible proteins and energy. Just remember to remove any uneaten fresh foods within a few hours to avoid bacterial growth.
Recommended Foods and Supplements
Here’s a breakdown of the best food items and supplements to keep your breeding pair in top shape:
Pellets:
Harrison’s High Potency
Roudybush Breeder Pellets
ZuPreem Natural
Fresh Veggies (Daily):
Kale, spinach, broccoli
Carrots, peas, squash
Bell peppers, beets
Fruits (Moderate use):
Apples (no seeds), mangoes, berries
Bananas, papaya, pomegranate
Proteins & Treats:
Cooked eggs (boiled or scrambled, no oil)
Cooked lentils, chickpeas
Small amounts of cooked chicken or turkey (occasionally)
Supplements (Vet-approved):
Calcium with Vitamin D3 (e.g., Calcivet)
Multivitamins (like Nekton-S)
Probiotics (to aid digestion and improve absorption)
Avoid feeding avocados, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, and onions, as they’re toxic to parrots. And steer clear of seed-only diets, which are deficient in essential nutrients and lead to obesity and liver problems.
Monitoring Breeding and Egg Laying
Courtship to Copulation Process
Once the breeding pair is healthy, bonded, and the environment is optimized, you’ll start to notice changes in behavior that signal courtship. These can include synchronized vocalizations, increased grooming, and the male feeding the female. This stage is like a honeymoon period—critical for forming trust and affection.
Copulation in African Greys usually takes place on a perch, where the male balances on the female’s back and aligns their cloacas. This act may only last a few seconds, but it often happens multiple times over several days to ensure fertilization.
You don’t need to intervene during this stage unless there’s aggression or stress. Provide privacy, reduce noise, and avoid moving the cage. A stressed pair may stop mating or even abandon the process altogether. The more natural and undisturbed their environment, the higher the chances of successful fertilization.
Signs of Egg Laying and Timeline
After successful mating, the female may take 7–10 days before laying her first egg. Typical signs that egg laying is near include increased time spent inside the nest box, scratching or rearranging the bedding, and less interest in interaction.
Most females lay a clutch of 3 to 5 eggs, spaced about 48 hours apart. Once the first egg is laid, incubation begins—either by the female or artificially if you’re managing incubation yourself. She may become more protective and territorial during this period, which is completely normal.
Here’s a quick timeline to help you track the stages:
Stage | Duration | Notes |
---|---|---|
Courtship & Copulation | 1–2 weeks | Frequent mating |
First Egg Laid | ~7–10 days after mating | Look for nesting behavior |
Full Clutch Completion | 6–10 days | 3–5 eggs laid every other day |
Incubation Period | ~26–28 days | Begins with first or second egg |
It’s essential to monitor from a distance. Intruding too often can result in stress, egg abandonment, or even the female damaging the eggs. Use a camera if needed or observe through a small peephole.
Egg Incubation and Hatchling Care
Natural vs Artificial Incubation
You’ve got two options when it comes to incubation—natural or artificial. Each has its pros and cons, and the choice often depends on the pair’s temperament and your experience as a breeder.
Natural Incubation:
In this method, the female does all the work. She sits on the eggs, turns them regularly, and maintains the right temperature. This is the most natural method and works well with experienced, calm pairs. However, if the pair is young, aggressive, or stressed easily, natural incubation might result in abandoned or broken eggs.
Artificial Incubation:
This method requires you to remove the eggs and place them in a controlled incubator. You’ll need to maintain a precise temperature (99.5°F or 37.5°C) and humidity (50–60% initially, then increased to 65–70% near hatching). Eggs must be turned every 2–4 hours for proper development.
Artificial incubation allows closer monitoring and prevents egg loss due to inexperienced parents, but it’s labor-intensive and requires skill and equipment.
Handling Unfertilized or Dead Eggs
Not every egg will be fertile. Candling—a method using a small bright light to look inside the egg—can help you identify whether the embryo is developing. This is usually done around 7–10 days after laying.
Unfertilized eggs appear clear or show no growth. If an egg is confirmed infertile, remove it gently to prevent it from rotting or contaminating the clutch. Dead embryos may appear as a dark ring or with halted development.
It’s normal to lose one or two eggs, especially with young or first-time pairs. The key is not to panic. Learn from the experience and adjust for next time—whether it’s diet, timing, or environmental conditions.
Caring for Chicks After Hatching
Feeding the Chicks
Once the chicks begin hatching—usually around 26 to 28 days after incubation begins—the most critical phase starts: feeding and nurturing the newborns. During the first few days, if you’re allowing the parent birds to rear the chicks, the female usually takes on the primary feeding role. She regurgitates a nutrient-rich substance known as “crop milk,” which is essential for the baby’s initial growth.
However, in many breeding situations, especially for hand-raised African Greys, breeders step in to feed the chicks themselves. This practice is known as hand-feeding, and while it helps in developing tame and human-friendly parrots, it also demands strict hygiene, precision, and patience.
You’ll need a quality hand-feeding formula—brands like Kaytee Exact or Tropican are widely recommended. The formula should be freshly mixed at a lukewarm temperature (around 105°F or 40°C) and fed using a syringe or spoon. Chicks should be fed every 2 to 3 hours for the first few days, with the frequency gradually decreasing as they grow.
Keep a close eye on the chick’s crop (the pouch where food is stored before digestion). Only feed again when it is nearly empty to prevent sour crop or bacterial infections. Clean utensils thoroughly before each feeding session to maintain strict sanitation.
Monitoring Growth and Development
Tracking your chicks’ development is essential to ensure they’re thriving. Healthy chicks should show steady weight gain, improved feather growth, and increased alertness over time. Use a digital scale to weigh them daily and record their progress. A sudden drop in weight could signal health issues and should prompt immediate action.
Developmental milestones include:
Day 1-7: Eyes closed, reliant on warmth, no feathers.
Day 8-14: Eyes begin to open, pin feathers may emerge.
Day 15-21: Rapid growth, begging behavior increases.
Week 4 onward: Feathers begin to open, chicks become more mobile and curious.
If you notice any signs of distress like lethargy, gasping, abnormal droppings, or failure to thrive, contact an avian vet immediately. Early intervention is crucial for survival.
Provide a brooder with controlled temperature and humidity, mimicking the warmth of a nest. Start with 95°F (35°C) and gradually reduce it as the chick’s feathers develop. Chicks should always be kept clean, warm, and secure.
Weaning and Socializing Young African Greys
Gradual Transition to Solid Foods
Weaning is a major step in the life of a baby African Grey—it’s when they start shifting from formula to solid foods. This process usually begins around 8–10 weeks of age and can take another 4–6 weeks or more, depending on the individual bird.
During weaning, start introducing soft solids like mashed fruits, vegetables, soaked pellets, and warm, cooked grains (like quinoa or oatmeal). Place food in shallow dishes so chicks can explore at their own pace. Don’t rush the process—some birds wean faster than others, and forcing the issue can lead to behavioral problems and nutritional deficiencies.
Chicks will often play with food before eating it—this is normal. Encourage exploration and offer a variety of textures and colors to stimulate curiosity. You should continue some hand-feeding during this phase to ensure they’re getting enough nutrition while learning to eat independently.
By the time the chicks are fully weaned (usually around 12–14 weeks), they should be confidently eating a well-balanced diet that includes pellets, fresh produce, and occasional healthy treats.
Human Interaction and Behavioral Training
Early socialization is what makes African Greys such remarkable companion birds. Chicks that are gently handled from a young age are far more likely to develop into affectionate, well-behaved adults. Start by handling the chicks briefly each day, gradually increasing the time as they become more comfortable.
Talk to them, whistle, and let them hear everyday household sounds. This exposure helps desensitize them and reduces fear responses later in life. Encourage stepping up onto your hand or perch, using positive reinforcement like praise or a treat.
Avoid negative interactions—no shouting or punishment. African Greys are sensitive and remember unpleasant experiences, which can result in long-term fear or aggression. Instead, use patience and repetition to build trust.
Training can begin early with basic commands like “step up” or “come.” Use short, fun sessions and keep them consistent. The earlier you start, the better. Socialized chicks are not only easier to sell but are far more likely to live happy, balanced lives with their future owners.
Common Challenges in Breeding African Greys
Infertility Issues
Infertility is one of the most frustrating challenges breeders face. A pair may seem perfectly bonded, healthy, and active—yet the eggs remain unfertilized. Causes can range from improper mating techniques and poor diet to environmental stress or genetic issues.
If you consistently get infertile eggs, consider the following:
Is the male mounting correctly and frequently?
Is the female physically able to produce and lay viable eggs?
Is the diet rich in essential nutrients like Vitamin A and E?
Are the birds too old or too young?
Candling the eggs around Day 7–10 can confirm fertility. If no signs of embryo development are visible, try changing environmental factors or even consider a different pairing if repeated failures occur.
Aggression Between Pairs
Aggression between breeding pairs is another major hurdle. Sometimes, even bonded birds will turn on each other—especially during nesting season when hormones are running high. Fights can lead to injuries or even death if not managed carefully.
Early signs of aggression include excessive screaming, chasing, and pecking. If you notice these, separate the pair immediately. Sometimes, a temporary separation followed by a gradual reintroduction can help reset the relationship.
Preventive strategies include:
Providing enough space and perches.
Multiple feeding stations to reduce competition.
Reducing environmental stress (e.g., noise, sudden movements).
Aggression can also stem from frustration if breeding attempts repeatedly fail. Monitor their behavior closely, and don’t hesitate to consult an avian behaviorist or vet for professional guidance.
Health and Veterinary Care
Preventative Health Measures
When breeding African Grey Parrots, prevention is always better than cure. These intelligent birds are prone to stress-related illnesses, which can quickly derail a breeding cycle. A solid preventative care routine ensures both adult birds and chicks stay healthy throughout the process.
Start with regular vet check-ups. Before breeding begins, get a full health screening for both the male and female. This should include blood tests, fecal exams, and screenings for avian diseases like Psittacosis, Polyomavirus, and PBFD (Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease).
Quarantine any new birds for at least 30 days before introducing them to your aviary. This reduces the risk of introducing pathogens to your existing flock. Always wash your hands before and after handling birds, and sanitize cages, perches, and feeding bowls regularly.
Provide daily opportunities for exercise and mental stimulation. Healthy, active birds are far more likely to breed successfully. Rotate toys, introduce foraging puzzles, and offer opportunities to explore. Stressed, bored birds are not only less likely to breed—they’re more prone to illness and behavioral issues like feather plucking.
Don’t forget to keep the environment clean. Remove uneaten food, change water frequently, and clean the nest box between clutches. A hygienic environment reduces the risk of bacterial or fungal infections that can devastate your breeding program.
Recognizing Illness in Breeders and Chicks
Despite your best efforts, illness can still occur. The key is to catch it early. Parrots are masters at hiding symptoms—by the time they show visible signs of being sick, the condition is often advanced.
Watch for subtle changes in behavior or appearance:
Fluffed feathers
Reduced appetite or weight loss
Lethargy or excessive sleeping
Discharge from the eyes or nostrils
Changes in droppings (color, consistency, frequency)
For chicks, warning signs include:
Lack of weight gain
Crying constantly
Slow development
Sour crop (swollen, mushy, or bad-smelling crop)
Cold body temperature
If you suspect illness, isolate the bird and contact an avian vet immediately. Early treatment can save lives and prevent the spread of disease. Keep a “hospital cage” on hand—a smaller cage with controlled temperature, soft bedding, and easy access to food and water.
Also, consider supplementing your birds’ diet with immune-boosting foods like garlic (in very tiny amounts), turmeric, or vet-approved herbal supplements. Always consult a professional before introducing new substances.
Legal and Ethical Considerations
Permits and Regulations
Breeding African Greys is not just a personal endeavor—it’s also a legal responsibility. These birds are protected under the CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) agreement due to their declining wild populations. Depending on your country or state, you may need specific licenses or permits to breed and sell them legally.
In the U.S., for example, breeders must comply with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service regulations and possibly register under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. The European Union has strict documentation rules for import, export, and captive breeding of African Greys.
Before you start, research your local and national laws thoroughly. Reach out to avian societies, wildlife agencies, or established breeders for guidance. Non-compliance can result in hefty fines, confiscation of birds, or even criminal charges.
Also, keep detailed records of each bird’s origin, breeding history, and health. This documentation protects you and ensures transparency for potential buyers. Many breeders also microchip or band their birds for identification purposes.
Responsible and Ethical Breeding Practices
Breeding should never be done solely for profit. Ethical breeders prioritize the health, welfare, and future of the birds. This means avoiding inbreeding, not over-breeding pairs, and ensuring every chick has a good chance at a healthy, happy life.
Limit the number of clutches per year to prevent stress and health issues for the female. Two clutches per year are typically considered safe. Allow resting periods between breeding cycles, and monitor the female for signs of fatigue or nutrient depletion.
Don’t breed birds that have known genetic issues or behavioral problems. Passing these traits on can lead to suffering for the chicks and frustration for future owners.
Screen potential buyers carefully. Ensure they understand the responsibilities of owning an African Grey—these birds live 40–60 years and need daily care and interaction. Provide education and resources to help them succeed.
By breeding ethically, you’re not just producing birds—you’re shaping lives, strengthening the species, and building a reputation that will sustain your work for years to come.
Preparing Chicks for New Homes
Screening Potential Buyers
Selling African Grey Parrots isn’t like selling furniture—it’s placing a living, intelligent creature into someone’s life for decades. That’s why screening buyers is so important. A good breeder takes time to ensure each chick goes to a responsible and prepared home.
Start with a conversation. Ask about the buyer’s experience with birds, their living situation, and why they want an African Grey. Do they understand the commitment? Are they aware of the noise level, time investment, and potential behavior issues?
Look for red flags:
Impulse buyers
Poor housing setup
Lack of knowledge or unwillingness to learn
People looking to breed without experience or proper setup
Encourage buyers to visit your aviary, meet the chicks, and ask questions. This helps them feel confident and allows you to gauge their suitability. Some breeders even use questionnaires or contracts to formalize the screening process.
Education and After-Sale Support
Once you’ve found the right buyer, your job isn’t over. Provide a comprehensive care guide that includes information on diet, housing, socialization, and health. Go over the bird’s routine, preferences, and any quirks it might have developed.
Include a weaning certificate that confirms the bird is fully independent. Offer a window for support—many breeders provide free advice for 30 or 60 days post-sale to help new owners adjust and deal with any challenges.
Encourage new owners to join parrot communities, online forums, or local avian clubs. These resources can provide support, advice, and camaraderie during the early days of ownership.
Good after-sale support builds trust, encourages referrals, and helps reduce the number of parrots that end up abandoned or rehomed due to misinformation or unrealistic expectations.
Record-Keeping and Documentation
Breeding Logs and Medical Records
Keeping accurate, up-to-date records is the backbone of a successful breeding operation. Every breeding pair should have its own file containing health records, mating history, egg-laying dates, and chick development notes.
Use spreadsheets, breeding software, or even detailed notebooks to track:
Pair bonding dates
Mating frequency and behavior
Egg laying and hatching timelines
Weight and health of chicks
Vaccinations and veterinary visits
These records are invaluable when troubleshooting issues, planning future breeding, or providing buyers with accurate information.
Pedigree Tracking
Responsible breeders also maintain pedigree records to avoid inbreeding and track desirable traits. Knowing the lineage helps improve breeding quality and keeps your flock genetically healthy.
Each chick should be tagged with an ID band, microchip, or assigned number that corresponds to its file. Document the parents, hatch date, sex (once confirmed), and any unique physical or behavioral traits.
Pedigree tracking not only enhances your reputation but adds value to your birds, especially for buyers seeking specific traits or bloodlines. It also makes it easier to identify birds in the event of theft, escape, or legal issues.
Conclusion and Final Thoughts
Breeding African Grey Parrots is a deeply rewarding yet highly demanding responsibility. From selecting the right pair and building trust, to monitoring incubation and hand-raising chicks, every step requires precision, patience, and passion. These parrots aren’t just beautiful—they’re intelligent, sensitive, and emotionally complex animals that deserve the best from us.
As a breeder, you hold the power to influence not just the lives of these birds, but the families they’ll eventually join. Ethical practices, strong education, and continued support will not only improve the quality of life for your parrots but also help raise the standards of aviculture as a whole.
Whether you’re just starting out or looking to refine your practices, let this guide serve as your roadmap to successful, responsible breeding. With the right knowledge and commitment, you can play a vital role in preserving and celebrating one of nature’s most remarkable creatures.
FAQs
1. What is the best age for African Greys to start breeding?
African Greys should be at least 4–5 years old before breeding. Earlier breeding can lead to health complications and immature parenting behavior.
2. How many eggs do they usually lay?
A typical clutch consists of 3 to 5 eggs, laid every other day. Not all eggs may be fertile or hatch successfully.
3. How do I tell if my parrots have bonded?
Bonded pairs will groom each other, share food, and spend time close together. They’ll also exhibit synchronized behaviors and reduced aggression.
4. Is hand-rearing better than parent-rearing?
Hand-rearing produces tame birds ideal for companionship, while parent-rearing is more natural and often results in better immunity. Both methods have their pros and cons.
5. Can I breed African Greys without a license?
It depends on your location. Many regions require permits due to their CITES protection. Always check your local laws before breeding or selling.